Hanoi · 13–15 October 2026

Two and a half days in Hanoi.

Called off in October 2026 after Os was injured. A week in Catalonia took its place.

Two and a half days in Hanoi with Os’s parents, at the end of their fortnight in Vietnam, before the two of us fly on to Bangkok. Old Quarter on foot, the lake, egg coffee, water puppets, and nothing that needs a day trip.

The idea

The end of Os’s fortnight in Vietnam with family, and the start of ours. Jabari arrives on the 13th, and for two and a half days it is the four of us in the Old Quarter.

No day trips, because there is no time for them. Everything below is walkable or a short ride, and nothing on this page is booked.

  • Four of us, so a gentle pace. Mornings for the sights, afternoons slow, and the evenings for eating.
  • Thursday ends at 15:30. One car to Noi Bai for all four of us. The morning still has room for the Temple of Literature or a last coffee.
  • Weekday Hanoi. The walking street round the lake and the weekend night market both run Friday to Sunday, so they miss us.
  • Warm, with showers. Around 29°C by day and 22°C at night, short showers on some days, and sunset at about 17:30.

The days

One rough shape, easy to ignore.

Round the lake, on foot

Everything here is within 20 minutes’ walk of Hoan Kiem Lake.

The red Huc bridge to Ngoc Son Temple lit up at night among trees

Hoan Kiem Lake and Ngoc Son

50,000 VND for the temple Half an hour, or any evening

The lake the Old Quarter wraps around. The red Huc bridge crosses to Ngoc Son, a small temple on an island, and the whole thing is lit up after dark. A loop of the lake is the easy walk at either end of the day.

  • Temple open 7:00 to 19:00 on weekdays, cash only
  • The lake streets only close to traffic Friday to Sunday, so not for us
  • Fits in anywhere
Two cups of foamy egg coffee in bowls of hot water on a marble table

Egg coffee at Café Giảng

About 35,000 VND Twenty minutes

Egg yolk whipped with condensed milk over strong coffee, served warm. It was invented here in 1946, down a narrow alley five minutes from the lake, and it tastes more like dessert than it sounds.

  • Open about 7:00 to 22:00
  • Upstairs seating is small and tight
  • Queues in the afternoon, calmer in the morning
cafegiang.vn
The Thang Long Water Puppet Theatre on a busy corner with scooters passing

Water puppets

100,000–200,000 VND 50 minutes

A thousand-year-old form staged in a waist-deep pool, with a live band and no language needed. The Thang Long theatre is two minutes from the lake. The 17:20 show fits before dinner on the Tuesday or the Wednesday.

  • Shows at 15:00, 16:10, 17:20, 18:30 and 20:00
  • Front rows cost the most
  • Worth booking a day or two ahead
  • Not on Thursday: the airport car leaves at 15:30
nhahatmuaroithanglong.vn
A clay pot of chả cá, fish with dill and spring onion, over a flame with noodles and herbs

A street food walk

$20 each 3 hours

The easy way for four people to eat properly without guessing: a guide, a dozen small stops round the Old Quarter, and dishes like chả cá, fish turmeric-fried at the table with dill. Hanoi Street Food Tour runs it daily at 11:00, 17:00 and 18:30.

  • Pay on arrival
  • Book direct; the site warns about copycats using its name
  • Bia hoi on Tạ Hiện afterwards, early rather than late
hanoistreetfoodtour.com
The rusty iron trusses of Long Biên bridge with a train crossing

Long Biên bridge at sunset

Free Half an hour

The old iron bridge over the Red River, with a footpath along the side and trains rattling past on the middle track. Sunset is around 17:30 in mid-October, so 17:00 to 17:45 is the time.

  • About 20 minutes on foot from the lake
  • Narrow path beside scooters, with gaps in the deck
  • Short showers are common in October

A Grab ride away

Ten to fifteen minutes by car, or a long walk.

The triple-arched main gate of the Temple of Literature behind a courtyard

The Temple of Literature

70,000 VND An hour or two

Vietnam’s first university, founded in 1070. Five walled courtyards, stone stelae on the backs of tortoises, and the quietest place in the city. The best single sight to share with Os’s parents, and it suits the Thursday morning before the airport.

  • Open daily 8:00 to 17:00, cash only
  • Covered shoulders and knees
  • A night programme may run on Wednesdays, not confirmed
  • About 10 minutes by Grab
vanmieu.gov.vn
Railway tracks running between narrow houses and café fronts on Train Street

Train Street

Free, with a drink An hour

A lane so narrow the train passes within arm’s reach of front doors. Since 2025 nobody stands on the tracks: the way to see it is from one of the licensed cafés along them, with a drink, when a train is due.

  • Sections sometimes close without notice
  • The café knows the train times
  • The Lê Duẩn end is the easiest to get into
  • Optional: a letdown if it is shut that day
The red tower of Trấn Quốc Pagoda beside a pond on the edge of West Lake

West Lake and Trấn Quốc

Free An afternoon

The oldest pagoda in the city on a spit of land in West Lake, with a red tower and lakeside cafés all round it. A slow afternoon rather than a sight.

  • No shorts or tank tops in the pagoda
  • Hours are roughly 8:00 to 16:00, not confirmed
  • About 15 minutes by Grab

If there is time

Good, just not first.

Prices and hours were researched in September 2026, mostly from travel guides rather than official pages, so worth a check before relying on them.